Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Fijian Islands
Update from Alan...
Wednesday July 7th
Bula! Bula! (hello or welcome in Fijian) We arrived in Lautoka today after a 24 hour sail from Savusavu on the north island of Fiji. Most of the sailing was through passes of calm water with coral reefs all around. We tried to time the trip so that most of the passes were done in daylight. I have been pretty surprised at what Fiji is like. I guess I thought it was a tropical island paradise like Bora Bora. If you had told me it was lots of mountains, Indian food, hot springs, pine forest and sugar plantations I guess I might have been surprised. It has a little bit of everything. Including some of the best reefs and scuba diving in the world (which we didn’t get close enough to take advantage of) and like almost every place we have been, I am continually seeing things that I wish we could do but don’t have enough time and know that I could spend a month here and not be bored or see it all. We have met many many cruisers who HAVE seen it all sailing the pretty much the same route as us and left Canada or other east coast ports 3-5 years ago and have only gotten as far as we are now. One couple who we met upon our arrival here said it best, ”Man you guys need to drop out of warp speed!” Our mantra seems to be “darn, I wish we could do that but were leaving in the morning.”
Lautoka, also known as the sugar city for its big sugar exportation industry is the 2nd largest city in Fiji and has a much different feel than Savusavu. It is much more “city like” with literally hundreds of busy shops mostly run by Indians who are decedants of the migrant labor brought here in the early 20th century to work the sugar plantations. There is a bus station and a train, a mall, large produce and handicraft market and a large shipping port. Similar in many ways to Papeete, Tahiti.
We anchored around noon and cleared into customs and spent the day on the town. We found a place to get some cheap food, and saw the produce market. I bought a small bag of ground Waka which we will use to try and make Kava later. Kava is the ceremonial drink of the western pacific islands. It has a mild grassy flavor and gives a feeling of relaxation and somewhat of a buzz but very mildly so. It is mostly similar to tea I suppose but very traditional and ceremonial. Later, Will and I went off on our own and Adam and Amanda went exploring on their own. We have done this so far it works well since they walk very fast and Will and I like to stop and smell the roses a lot usually without a plan just breathing it all in and going with the flow. It works really well and I have yet to regret this way of exploring.
We stopped at a barber shop because Will wanted a hair/beard cut. Almost every Indian shop here advertises as a barber and a tailor for the matter, so that wasn’t hard to find. I was even asked if I would like a haircut while walking down the street. Will got a very nice haircut for 3 fijian dollars and is very clean cut looking now with a trimmed beard even. I opted to stay a spectator. Afterwards, we wandered into some random shops and looked at everything from second hand cloths to DVD’s to handicrafts. We enjoyed just walking around and reading the random advertizing signs like, “Meat Bird for sale, Inquire inside”, or “Cloths for sale, 5 dollars each.” Many eateries offer “takeway” food and almost every single shop has fried food that has been sitting under a hot lamp which is usually cheap and delicious. We also found some ice cream OF COURSE.
We were also in search of a place to maybe watch the world cup tomorrow Will is a big follower. Another game is tomorrow at 630am local time so that may be difficult but that didn’t deter us from at least checking out a couple of places that were recommended by the cruising couple we met on the way in. The Sea View Hotel was an unlikely looking place on the water and we asked the lady at the desk where we could find a place to get a beer. “You can get one here of course, have a seat!” was her reply. So we did. They had a TV but she looked confused when we tried to ask if she would be able to get the game in the morning at 630. The second place we checked out was across the street from “The most exclusive night club in Lautoka” (that was the name of the place) but we didn’t see a TV so we moved on.
We kept wandering, wondering if Adam and Amanda would be headed back to the dinghy dock since it was already around 630pm. We decided to head that direction and made a detour to check out one last place “The Northern Club” a country club type place with some tennis courts, a pool and large dance floor area with snooker tables, a big bar and a deck. We just had to sign our names and they let us in. There we saw Adam and Amanda just sitting down at a table. We were surprised but glad we didn’t have to keep guessing if they were waiting on us back at the boat. We hadn’t made a plan to meet up anywhere. Oops. Anyway we all had a few beers there and asked about the world cup in the morning but it didn’t sound like they were that excited about it and Will didn’t seem too worried. Personally I’ll be surprised if we are out of bed before 730 tomorrow morning.
We walked back to the dock through the container ship port and rowed the dinghy back to the boat which is where I now sit, recalling our days adventuring.
Plans:
We plan to spend today here exploring some other areas, maybe bussing over to a new town. Unfortunately, the Fiji water bottling company does not offer tours of their facility which we were kind of hoping to see. Then on Friday, we will move the boat about 12 miles further south to a proper yacht marina to fill up on diesel fuel before leaving directly for Vanuatu. We are planning to make landfall there at, Tana or Tona, not sure how you spell it but there is apparently an active volcano on the island that you can hike up which I hope will be a great highlight of our stop there! It’s about 650 miles to Vanuatu and then another 1300 and change to Carins. Will and I are very much looking forward to spending time in AUS and travelling down the coast to Sydney exploring along the way.
Friday, July 2, 2010
No Bread?
I"ve posted an email we got from Alan below. Seems more and more the emails are about food. By the looks of it above, they are getting their fill, just not what they might consider comfort foods.
June 30th:
July1st:
June 30th:
4:15pm here onboard the WTP. We are underway to Fiji now have left in the wee hours of the morning last night. The wind has just picked up and we were able to turn the motor off. We have been motoring since we left Vavau and the wind has been very very light until this evening. We have 300 miles to go and hope the wind remains steady and calm for the rest of the crossing.
July1st:
We saw fish jumping earlier today and I threw the line in the water but no luck so far.Everything going fine today. Wish I had caught a fish. We managed to leave Vavau without buying any fresh fruit or veg or even bread. I don't know how we managed to do that but I think it has something to do with with our middle of the night departures. ( I guess we could have bought some bread but we all forgot really). At least we have propane (this they forgot last time)...and now some wind. We have plenty of wind now though so I would trade some it for some bread.
When I get home I cannot wait to hang out with you guys and show you all of my pictures over some great big Amante's Pizzas!!!! Amante's pizza may be the best pizza in the whole world. Certainly there is nothing even close out here. We had pizza when we landed in Vavau and it left much to be desired and it was expensive. I would kill for some Amante's pizza right now. Ok, i need to stop thinking about food I guess. If only I could stop dreaming about it. :)
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Another Birthday
Happy Birthday Adam!
Paul and I just completed our own little sailboat cruse, 8 days on our 20 ft Core Sound sailboat named "Dawn Patrol". Trip reports and photos will be shown on my other blog http://sandybottomkayaker.blogspot.com/.
Sounds like the EYE crew is getting some land exercise these days. Alan reported a few days ago that "Were in Samoa on Apia island. Not in US any more. But the bb is working here. Yesterday we went hashing with the group here. It was a little different but the basics were there (running and beer) but they don't drink the beer until AFTER they run how weird! We were all very thirsty. But in the end it was great fun."
They have sinced move to another Island, "Vava-u Group" of Tonga, where we hear there could be some humpback whales. We sure have enjoyed being able to locate them on the SPOT these days.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Happy Birthday Will
Yesterday was Will’s birthday. We know this because we were lucky to do a video chat with Alan at 6am this morning, 11pm their time and still Will’s Birthday. A fun chat with Alan, it seems Will and Alan had spent the day celebrating, quite a bit.
Alan reported that they arrived in Pago Pago in the wee hours of the morning and ended up tying alongside a barge at the dock as it was the only space available. They cleared customs etc… in the morning with no problems and Adam and Amanda went to go get the propane tank filled and on the way see about a tour of the starkist tuna factory. Pago Pago is the hub for all the Tuna canneries. Starkist and Chicken of the Sea...well at least it was. The Chicken plant is already closed and the Starkist plant is due to close very soon. No luck on a tour.
In the meantime, Will and Alan went exploring the town of Fagatogo with a hardware store, library, news paper office, post office, and eventually to a car parts store to look for a new solenoid for the engine. Thiers stopped working again in Bora Bora, no luck on that so far though.
After that, they all met at a grocery store and Alan bought cookies and a large toothpaste (evidently much needed). Then they found a big Cost-Co/Sams Club type store and bought a bunch of food for the boat, including the propane. Adam also bought a small 12 volt cooler thing that can hold up to 9 soda cans, designed for use in a car for roadtrips but only $35, all are curious to see how it will work during their cruising.
There is a McDonald’s across from the dock, with internet available (so all should receive emails at least today). Alan says that being there seems very similar to being in Hawaii, and with English the primary language.
With necessities/chores out of the way, Will and Alan started celebrating with a day playing golf, a full course, rented clubs etc… all for $9 each, and then other lively imbibments.
Happy Birthday Will!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
June 13th
It's 1:30am my time, I'm on watch for another half hour and then I'll try to send this out. We are about 60 miles from the island of Ofu where we plan to spend tomorrow afternoon and evening on a beach said to be one of the best in the world and then make the 50 or so mile jump to Pago Pago tomorrow night.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
June 11 & 12
Day 7 - email from Alan:
Today was another hot one but with good steady wind. We now have about 450Nm to go.
Day 8 email:
This morning we sailed through a drenching rain shower accompanied by another wind shift. I guess the rain likes me since I was again on watch just minding my own business watching the sunrise and here comes this rain shower to get me all wet.
I turned the tables though and got a great freshwater shower from it. When Will came to relive me of the watch, naturally the rain subsided and there was a rainbow. Why do I get all the luck?
For dinner, a cold chili with beans and crackers with cheese and spinach dip!
We are motoring now due to the light wind that has settled over us in the late afternoon but hope to be under sail only soon. With just 250 miles to go, were all ready to feel dry land again.
Note: The EYE has had good SPOT coverage the past few days providing a good picture of where they are and how fast they are moving towards American Samoa.
Today was another hot one but with good steady wind. We now have about 450Nm to go.
In the late afternoon, some scattered clouds started building around us and we could see numerous rain showers. By about 10pm the rain hit in a big downpour that lasted about 20 minutes accompanied by a wind shift to the Notheast. During the downpour I was able to fill all my water bottles and made some gatorade. The downpour ended and so did my shift.
We have had to start the motor however to give the batteries some juice. They have not been benefiting from the wind generator at all in the light conditions and the solar panels are shaded for half the day and are not able to keep up with our power usage.
We checked in with the "Pac Sea" radio net this evening. Loud and Clear!
Day 8 email:
This morning we sailed through a drenching rain shower accompanied by another wind shift. I guess the rain likes me since I was again on watch just minding my own business watching the sunrise and here comes this rain shower to get me all wet.
I turned the tables though and got a great freshwater shower from it. When Will came to relive me of the watch, naturally the rain subsided and there was a rainbow. Why do I get all the luck?
For dinner, a cold chili with beans and crackers with cheese and spinach dip!
We are motoring now due to the light wind that has settled over us in the late afternoon but hope to be under sail only soon. With just 250 miles to go, were all ready to feel dry land again.
Note: The EYE has had good SPOT coverage the past few days providing a good picture of where they are and how fast they are moving towards American Samoa.
Friday, June 11, 2010
June 10th
Day 6th email from Alan (I really enjoy these emails and getting a feel for some of thier daily life aboard):
Today was a hot one. Staying cool under the shade of the bimini cover was a must. We had a little wind shift in the morning but it straightened back out after lunch and we have made good steady progress directly on course all afternoon at around 5.5 knots. Skies have been clear, sun had been hot, wind has been windy from the SE around 5-8 knots.
This evening we listened in on and joined the Pacific Seafarers Radio Net. This net covers the entire Pacific ocean and meets daily at 3:30 UTC. With the help of about a dozen relay stations from Minnesota to New Zealand to Australia, these ham radio enthusiasts (some with large and powerful antennas) volunteer their time to listen in for any emergencies out on the pacific ocean from any vessel and take position reports from cruising vessels and make sure they arrive safely in their destination. We will be checking in with them every evening until we reach American Samoa.
In other news, our supply of baguette bread was exhausted today and just in time too as the final piece was starting to look a little green. We are starting to get very creative with out meals and are looking forward to some restocking in American Samoa.
NOTE: Here is the website for the Pacific Seafarers Network that Alan mentions above. The net is in two parts, beginning with an informal 25 minute 'warm up' session to exchange news, answer questions and solve problems. Next follows the Roll call, where boats are called in turn to give their position and weather observations. These details are shared with other boats and forwarded to weather forecasters around the world where they are used to improve forecast accuracy. In return, they post back special forecasts for boats in their coverage area.
They post the "Roll Call" on ther website. The EYE is KJ4QYH.
Today was a hot one. Staying cool under the shade of the bimini cover was a must. We had a little wind shift in the morning but it straightened back out after lunch and we have made good steady progress directly on course all afternoon at around 5.5 knots. Skies have been clear, sun had been hot, wind has been windy from the SE around 5-8 knots.
This evening we listened in on and joined the Pacific Seafarers Radio Net. This net covers the entire Pacific ocean and meets daily at 3:30 UTC. With the help of about a dozen relay stations from Minnesota to New Zealand to Australia, these ham radio enthusiasts (some with large and powerful antennas) volunteer their time to listen in for any emergencies out on the pacific ocean from any vessel and take position reports from cruising vessels and make sure they arrive safely in their destination. We will be checking in with them every evening until we reach American Samoa.
In other news, our supply of baguette bread was exhausted today and just in time too as the final piece was starting to look a little green. We are starting to get very creative with out meals and are looking forward to some restocking in American Samoa.
NOTE: Here is the website for the Pacific Seafarers Network that Alan mentions above. The net is in two parts, beginning with an informal 25 minute 'warm up' session to exchange news, answer questions and solve problems. Next follows the Roll call, where boats are called in turn to give their position and weather observations. These details are shared with other boats and forwarded to weather forecasters around the world where they are used to improve forecast accuracy. In return, they post back special forecasts for boats in their coverage area.
They post the "Roll Call" on ther website. The EYE is KJ4QYH.
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